I was sitting in the heart of a remote and isolated desert canyon, a very large boulder leaning precariously over my head. We were a half day's backpack from the nearest road -which was two tracks through 7 miles of sand. From there it was 36 miles down a dirt road to the nearest highway and five miles further to the nearest small country town.
Overhead the branches of a newly green cottonwood tree stretched across the chasm, its trunk's rough bark carved with grooves and ridges. I could hear the burble of the stream as it tumbled over rocks blocking its way. A western towhee searched through the ground debris flicking its tail as it pecked and scurried. The golden ochre canyon walls, carved in eons of time, stretched 700 feet in sheer sandstone cliffs to the narrow streak of sky. I sat, and listened and watched and, finally, I felt the stress in my life slip away and blow down the canyon with the breeze.
There is nothing like a desert hike to make the cares of life shrink down to the basics; food, shelter, water and companionship.
I went recently with some fellow online travel forum friends and their friends on a 4 day hike through Coyote Gulch. This 7 mile stretch (the full canyon is much longer) of hidden riparian greenery in the midst of a barren, slick rock desert, is a welcome burst of splendor. It is in many ways a shock to the system. Driving through miles and miles of dry brown rock and sagebrush one would never expect such stark beauty. But make no mistake. It must be gained from strenuous personal exertion and effort.
We took the Crack in the Wall route which begins at the end of 40 Mile Ridge road. After a two mile hike through sand and sandstone we arrived at the famous crack. Here a slab of rock has fallen away from the cliff, allowing a side-stepping squeeze option to get down to the sand hill beyond. The view of Steven's Arch, the meandering canyons of the Escalante and Coyote, and their confluence, carved through the bedrock, were all visible. Once we had maneuvered through the crack and taken a lunch break it was all down hill to the river, (well, more a streamlet really, but any water in the desert deserves the appellation of river). It was a very steep sand hill, which unfortunately, on our way back out would also need to be hiked up. We came upon a dune full of wild onions in full bloom. It was breathtakingly beautiful. At the bottom of the half mile hill we arrived at Coyote Gulch. We were really there. A hike upstream through lush vegetation and stream crossings to find a camping spot brought us to this ledge above the river at one of the many bends.
The second morning we day-hiked upstream enjoying each new discovery. A rock formation we dubbed T-Rex, sandy alcoves of possible camps, one stunning waterfall after another all four of which needed some maneuvering to get around, the sublime Coyote Natural Bridge- a supremely graceful arch over the stream, petroglyphs high up on the wall, Cliff Arch just like the giant jughandle by which is is also known, the watercarved sandstone swiss cheese streambed, and finally stately Jacob Hamblin Arch. Tracks of deer and scorpions and other small desert creatures were seen, but the only living thing we saw were lizards of various colors and sizes, until on our way back, like an omen of good will, we ran into a herd of deer heading through the bridge. Walking through the stream, next to cliff walls, through horsetail or willow forests, each bend in the canyon brought a new perspective and a growing sense of peace and timelessness.
The third day we headed downstream where we needed to negotiate around the boulder blocked stream. May I never, ever do anything like that again. The lower Coyote was worth it however as it has a unique quality and charm. Evidence of previous scouring floods and the effects of erosion were evident. Soon we arrived at the point where the clear Coyote waters converged with the greener Escalante's. Some of us took a swim in the warmish water. And then what should we see but someone kayaking. A short walk around the bend revealed magnificent Steven's Arch high up on the canyon wall. The Journey, while far from ended, was complete.
This is the wilds of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, adjacent to and reached from the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. A place still full of hidden nooks to explore and enjoy with time and preparation. We went in on a Wednesday and basically had the canyon to ourselves. From the number and size of groups we met coming in on Friday and Saturday they did not have that luxury. We also went on a warm spring week. It would be torturously hot in the summer.
I want to give credit to Howie, Deb and their friends Anne, Pete, Tinker and Ben, whose welcoming embrace included me as one of their own and whose companionship was a treasured piece of the journey and without whose help I would never have been able to negotiate and complete the hike.
I came home with my soul filled to the brim and overflowing with joy the size of Coyote Gulch.
Photos: http://tinyurl.com/d4jdvuh
